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Supplies You'll Need - Choosing a Pattern or Kit - Choosing a Fabric
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Choosing a Cross Stitch or Needlework Fabric

         Choosing a cross stitch, Hardanger, Needlepoint,  or needlework  fabric  can be a daunting task with the plethora of choices out there.  There are several different categories of cross stitch fabric:  Aida, Linen, Even Weave       (for example:  Jobelan and Lugana), Hardanger,  Canvas, specialty fabrics, as well as Afghan fabrics,  Hand Dyed fabrics and more.   Each of the different kinds of fabric have a unique texture, feel and sheen.  Some, like Linen are very stiff and others, like Aida Country French are very, very soft.  Fabrics  even smell different depending on what kind of material they are made out of and how they were dyed. 

         Our  fabric comes in 3 standard sizes.  A Fat Quarter, Fat Half and Full Yard.  Here is a video tutorial describing how fabric is sized and cut down...

         Fabrics can be made of many different materials as well.  100% cotton, rayon, canvas, polyester, linen, a mix of several textiles, etc.  The types of fabric also absorb the dye differently.  Linen is very absorbent and takes on color well.  Rayon, and polyester fabrics don't absorb dye as well.  If you are not sure what type of fabric you are looking for or you are interested in trying something different for your next project, purchase some of our fabric swatches.  Then you can feel and see the different types of fabric for yourself without having to commit to it for a whole project.

There are also many different colors in all of the fabric  groups to choose from.  White, off white, ecru, ivory, mushroom, cream, black,  and variations of white being the most used and widely available.  When choosing a color for a project,  you want to find something that compliments your design colors, but allows the design to show up well.  White is generally a safe bet, however  for a more unique look, choose a beautiful color.  There are also Hand Dyed fabrics that come in variegated colors that are very unique as well. Opalescent hand dyed fabrics add sparkle to your design.  They are prefect for a night sky or a water effect.  Hand dyed fabrics make your project come alive.  Natural color fabrics like Dirty Aida, Mushroom, Natural Light, Brown Undyed, Chestnut, etc. make a design look old fashioned, classic,  or antiqued.   The darker the fabric, the more difficult to see the holes in the fabric  to stitch I have noticed.  The metallic fabrics can be difficult to see as well while stitching, but if you can manage it they turn out just beautifully.  The hand dyed fabrics can lose some of their shape and that can make it more difficult to see the holes when sewing as well.  Once again, if you can handle the  variation in the hand dyed fabirc, there is nothing like a specialty  dyed fabric to add beauty and dimension to your project.  I have won several ribbons on projects that I used a hand dyed fabric.  It really brings your project alive.

We carry fabric from a few different companies known for quality.  Permin of Copenhagen (Scandinavian Art Needlework) was started in 1854 by Christian  Permin in Copenhagen Denmark.  His son Carl eventually took over the business and then his son.   Their main focus at the time was embroidered house wears.  However, during WWII their focus changed due to tough economic times.  They took advantage of the "do it yourself" movement of the time and started to create graphs or embroidery charts so customers could do their own embroidery work.  The first printed color chart was made in 1953.  Amazing.  Now they make needlework and cross stitch  fabric, patterns, kits and accessories for needle work.  We carry several of their linens, and cross stitch kits. 

          One of the most popular and easy to use fabrics for cross stitch is Aida fabric.  Most people learn to cross stitch on Aida fabric.   Aida fabric is generally  100% cotton.  Aida was invented in 1890 specifically  for cross stitch.  It is often referred to as "The Cross Stitch Fabric".    14 count is the most widely used in the group with the most color choices, followed by 16, 18  and then 11 count fabric.  Aida fabric consists of small squares that make it easy to count and even to stitch.  Aida is in fact  an even weave fabric.  It comes in several different counts as large as Herta (6 count) and fine as 20 count.  Herta is often used for teaching children or beginners to cross stitch because it is easy to see.  18 and 20 count fabrics are for more experienced cross stitchers that are looking for a finer or more detailed look  to their piece.  Aida Country French is a  cotton Aida even weave that has a soft, luxurious texture.  It is great for baby quilts, clothing or washable items.  It drapes nicely and comes in a variety of neutral colors.  It does however fray quite easily, so it is best to surge or tape the edges when working with it. 

 Example Aida 14 Count
Aida 14 Count Sample

          Hardanger is  made of 100% cotton and it is usually a  22 count fabric.  Hardanger is a method of embroidery and Hardanger fabric was designed specifically for it.  Hardanger embroidery used to be worked on linen years ago.  Hardanger as we know it today originated in the Hardanger region of Norway several hundred years ago.  Eventually, Norwegian immigrants brought it to the Untied States   Hardanger fabric is usually imported from European cities.  It is generally used for embroidery, but can be used by cross stitchers looking for delicate detail.   It is often used by stitchers for projects like ornaments and doilies.  There are pattern designs just for Hardanger.   You can even make clothing out of Hardanger fabric.  Hardanger projects make wonderful heirlooms. For more information about Hardanger, please read our Hardanger tips section. 

Example Hardanger 22 Count
Hardanger 22 Count Sample

          Linens have the appearance of a basket weave.  Linen offers a more “old fashioned” look to a piece.  It has a very rustic look to it, especially in the more neutral colors like "raw linen".    The fabric has a very "crisp" feel.  They are more difficult to use then Aidas because it requires more skill to control the tension of the floss for even stitches.  Linens are great for detailed designs and experienced stitchers.  Linens are generally stitched over two.  They come in several different counts with 32 and 28 counts being the most prevalent.  When stitched over two, 32 count becomes a 16 count, and 28 count becomes a 14 count.   Linen and Linen Blends come in many, many different colors.  There are several types of linen to choose from like Belfast, Cashel, Betsy Ross, Chester, Cork, Country French, Dublin, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Graziano, Hand Dyed, Hardanger, Pearl, Rosenstand, Silk, and Weaver.  Betsy Ross Linen comes in 10 count and it is made of 100% linen woven in a unique fashion ( Similar to Aida weave) to give it the old rustic look.  Ideal for the ''tired eye" projects as well as any designs of your choice.  Linen is a very traditional fabric and most project were worked on linen in the early history of cross stitch, and Hardanger embroidery.   Nora Corbett has also come up with a gorgeous line of fabrics to go with her more recent patterns.  The colors are very unique and soft.  Currently, they come in 16 count Aida and 32 count Linen.  The line of cross stitch fabric  is called, Hand Picked by Nora.  I keep all of her fabrics IN STOCK.

Example Hardanger 22 Count
Linen 32 Count Sample

          Even Weaves (Plain Weaves) are  often made of  cotton.  The warp and weft thread count is the same.  These fabrics come in many colors. There are several different types like Davosa, Janina, Lugana, Jazlyn (52% Cotton and 48% Rayon), Linda, Annabelle,  Jubilee, Aida and JobelanJobelan is one of the most popular because of it's elegant, soft, smooth sheen and large variety of colors, including hand dyed fabrics.  Jobelan also drapes nicely. Davos is made of 100% cotton twist yarn and it is great for all types of stitching.  It's a relatively thick fabric and is ideal for clothing, pillows and other items and gives a soft supple look.  It comes in a small range of neutral colors.  Lugana is also a heavy fabric that is very versatile and similar to a Jobelan.  Lugana comes in many colors and it is a blend of 52% cotton and 48% Viscose.  Did you know that Lugana used to be called Brittney fabric?  Lugana is a soft, heavy, even weave fabric that is easy to count and great for cross stitch.  It comes in many colors and a few different counts like 25, 28 and 32 counts with the most color choices in 25 count.   Lugana is an elegant fabric for table linens, samplers, pillows, and other decorative accessories.  Lugana is also a great choice for Hardanger projects.   It is made of 52% cotton/48% rayon blend.  Salem Cloth is made from a special blend of polyester and rayon yards.  Perfect for projects requiring soft, machine washable, soil and wrinkle resistant fabric.  It is a good alternative to Aida fabric.  Salem cloth is relatively inexpensive for cross stitch fabric.  It come in just a few neutral colors.

Example Hardanger 22 Count
Jobelan 28 Count Sample

         Hand Dyed Fabrics have a very unique look.  They come in Linens, Even Weaves, Aida and other traditional fabrics.  They are excellent for an interesting or unusual background.    Hand dyed opalescent fabrics are an incredible touch to any project.  Opalescent fabrics have a shinny thread weaved through out the fabric to give it sparkle.  They are excellent for a night time back ground with shimmering  stars.  Black or dark blue based  opalescent fabric works best.  Most of our hand dyed fabrics are supplied by  Picture this Plus.  Their fabrics are washable, soft in texture, and colorfast.  Picture This Plus uses Zweigart fabric for their hand dyed fabrics.  Types of fabric take on dye differently.  A linen is very porous, thus it soaks up dye well.  Where as a Lugana is a smoother fabric and does not soak up dye as easily.  If you are looking for a dark color, it is usually best to go with the Linen fabrics in the hand dyed section.  If you are looking for a more subtle effect, fabrics like Lugana, Aida, etc. are a good choice.  The hand dyed fabrics are all very unique.  No two are exactly alike.   Hand dyed fabrics come in a plethora of colors.  There are endless choices to choose from.  The hand dyed fabrics are a special order.  They are made for each individual customer so each one is unique.  You will have a one of a kind project to show off to  your friends.

Example Hand Dyed Fabric
Hand Dyed - Linen Babbling Brook

       Perforated Paper was used by those that could not afford Linen in the Victorian era.   During the Victorian era, most perforated paper projects consisted of bookmarks or bible verses made into samplers that were hung on the wall.   It is still used today for the same purposes.   It comes in a  variety of solid and marbled colors and is generally 14 count. Perforated paper is often used to make ornaments and bookmarks.

Example Perforated Paper
Perforated Paper -Hand Painted 14 Count

          Afghan fabrics.  Afghan fabric is often referred to as patterned fabric. There are several different types of afghan fabric to choose from.    Abby Cloth, Alba,  Almanac,  Andrea,  Alpine,   GloriaHearthside and many, many more.  They come in different counts and different styles.  Some have a large center for a center theme to the afghan.  Others are in patterns of squares.    There are many cross stitch patterns to choose from that are designed for afghans.  There are also some great baby afghans by companies like Charles Craft and Zweigart like the Baby Alphabet Afghan by Charles Craft.

Gloria, 14 count Afghan fabric

         Waste Canvas is used to stitch your design on fabrics that are not cross stitch friendly, like denim or T-shit cotton fabric, and table cloths and napkins.  Waste canvas comes in many different counts from 6.5 to 20 count.  Waste canvas is marked with a grid, usually in blue that breaks the canvas down into 10 count squares (just like a pattern)  that makes it easy to count and to position your design in the center.  Some people choose to use some fabric on the inside of the material they are stitching on to give added support to their stitches.  This is called interfacing.  Using a 6 stranded floss, you will generally stitch with two strands of floss.  However, this is something that is left up to you to decide.  If you are concerned that the floss colors will run, than you can soak each color of floss in water to remove any excess dye before stitching.   To begin your design, be sure to center the waste canvas on your shirt, blue jeans, etc.  You can baste or pin your waste canvas and interfacing to your project.    Be sure to secure your floss firmly so it doesn't come undone when you wash your garment.  Once you have stitched your design to your garment and you are finished, wet your waste canvas and gently pull it out from under your design so that all that is left is the design you have stitched on your garment.  It is best to wash your garment turned inside out.  Make sure the edges of your interfacing are trimmed close to the design so as not to be caught during the washing process and pulled off. 

Waste canvas

 

 

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