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Choosing a Cross Stitch or Needlework Fabric

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 Choosing a cross stitch, Hardanger, or needlework  fabric  can be a challenging task with the plethora of choices. There are several different categories of cross stitch fabric:  Aida,  Linens, several types of Even Weave, Hardanger, Canvas, Perforated Paper, and specialty fabrics. Each different type of fabric in the categories has a unique texture, feel and sheen.  Fabrics  even smell different depending on what kind of material they are made out of and how they are dyed.  One of my favorite things is the smell and feel of the fabrics as I pull them out of the boxes when I receive new supplies.

 

 

  

 

Materials used to make cross stitch fabrics.

Fabrics are made from 100% cotton, rayon, canvas, polyester, linen, jute, viscose  or a mix of several fibers. The types of material  absorbs the dye differently.  Linen fibers are porous, thus very absorbent and takes on color well.  Rayon, and polyester fabrics don't absorb dye as well.  If you are not sure what type of fabric you are looking for or you are interested in trying something different for your next project, purchase some of our  fabric swatches.  Then you can feel and see the different types of fabric for yourself without having to commit to it for a whole project.

 

So many different colors to choose from!    White, antique  white, ecru, ivory, mushroom, cream, black,  and variations of white are the most frequently used, and widely available fabrics for cross stitch and Hardanger.  When choosing a color for a project,  you want to find something that compliments your design colors, but allows the design to show up well. The color of a fabric can vary widely if they are from different companies, or different DYE LOTS (see more information on dye lots on the bottom of this page).  Keep this in mind when ordering fabric.  If you want to do several projects with the same color of fabric, and they must match exactly, you will want to purchase all of the fabric at one time. Having trouble choose a color?  Try our DMC color chart for help.

 

Where does your fabric come from?  Zweigart is our main fabric supplier and they have the largest color selection in the world! We also carry fabric from Permin of Copenhagen (Scandinavian Art Needlework). Wichelt/Permin is also one of our fabric suppliers. Wichelt Imports, Inc. is a wholesale supplier of cross stitch and needlework supplies based in Stoddard, Wisconsin. The founders were Ray and Joyce Wichelt. They went into business in 1970 from the basement of their home selling trinkets from Germany and yarns from Norway. (Information found on Wichelts website)

 

Aida Fabric  is one of the most popular and easy to use fabrics for cross stitch. Aida fabric was designed specifically for cross stitch by Zweigart in 1890. Most people learn to cross stitch on Aida fabric.  Aida  is generally made from 100% cotton, and It is frequently referred to as "The Cross Stitch Fabric". 14 count is the most popular count used  with the most color choices, followed by 16, 18, 11  and then 20 count fabric.  Aida fabric consists of small squares that make it easy to count and even to stitch.  It comes in several different counts as large as Herta (6 count) and as  fine as 20 count.  Herta is often used for teaching children or beginners to cross stitch because it is easy to see.  18 and 20 count fabrics are for more experienced cross stitchers that are looking for a finer or more detailed look  to their piece. 

 

Aida Country French is a cotton Aida, even weave fabric that has a very soft, luxurious texture made of 100% cotton.  It is great for baby quilts, clothing or washable items.  It drapes nicely and comes in a variety of neutral colors.  It does however fray quite easily, so it is best to surge or tape the edges when working with it. It is a good substitute for Salem Cloth, which is no longer available. Aida Country French comes in 14 and 16 count.

 

 
Aida Country French 14 Count Sample

Aida Yorkshire 14 count fabric is made of 96% cotton and 4% polyester.  It is a rustic fabric and a unique alternative to regular Aida.

 

Aida Yorkshire 14 Count Sample

 

Linen  fabric has the appearance of a basket weave.  Linen comes in several different counts including 18, 22, 26, 28, 30,32, 35, 40,  and 46 count.  Linen offers a more “old fashioned” look to a piece.  Traditional Linen has a very rustic look to it, especially in the more natural colors like "raw linen". Linen fabric has a very "crisp" feel. Linens are more challenging to use then Aidas because they require more skill to control the tension of the floss for even stitches. Linens are great for detailed designs and experienced stitchers. Linens are almost always stitched over two in the higher counts. Linens come in several different counts, with 32 and 28 counts being the most prevalent. When stitched over two, 32 count becomes 16 count (32/2), and 28 count becomes 14 count (28/2).  

 

Linen 18 Count Sample

Linen 22 Count Sample

Linen 26 Count Sample

Linen 28 Count Sample

Linen 30 Count Sample

Linen 32 Count Sample

Linen 35 Count Sample

Linen 40 Count Sample

 

 

Linen-Hardanger  (even weave)  fabric  is made of 100% linen and comes in 16 count.  It is stitched over one thread and is a course fabric.  The holes are prominent or what is called an "open weave".  It is a unique alternative to Aida fabric.

 

Linen Hardanger 16 Count Sample

 

Belfast  32 count Linen comes in a large variety of colors and is normally stitched over two threads.  Belfast is 100% linen and is much softer than standard Linen, which makes it a little easier to work with. All fabrics soften up as you stitch on them from the natural oils on your hands and manipulation of the fabric. 

 

Belfast Linen 32 Count Sample

 

Cashel  28 count Linen also comes in a large array of colors and is stitched over two in most cases. It is 100% linen and less stiff than standard Linen fabric. When stitched over 2, it becomes 14 count. (ie. 28/2=14). Cashel is one of my personal favorites for my cross stitch projects. I love the choice of colors and the way the fabric handles. I also like the look of the design when I am finished. 

 

Cashel Linen 28 Count Sample

 

Betsy Ross 10 count Linen is 100% linen and comes in a limited range of nice colors. Betsy Ross Linen is stitched over one, like an Aida. The holes in Betsy Ross Linen are prominent or an "open weave".  It is ideal for the ''tired eye" projects as well as any designs of your choice. It is great for thicker floss and threads. If you like Tula fabric, you may also enjoy Betsy Ross Linen. 

 

Betsy Ross Linen 10 Count Sample

 

 Cork 18 count Linen comes in a few neutral colors.  It is stitched over one like an Aida and is made of 100% linen. Cork Linen is soft and thick. It is a luxurious fabric to use for a project. and would be great for something like a throw that requires some drape. 

 

Cork Linen 18 Count Sample

 

Country French Linen, 28 and 32 count is very soft and made of 100% linen. It comes in a few neutral colors and is stitched over two threads. It is a very soft fabric. 

 

Country French Linen 28 Count Sample

 

 Dublin 25 count Linen comes in a few neutral colors and is made of 100% linen.  It can be stitched over one or over two.

 

Dublin Linen 25 Count Sample

 

Edinburgh 36 count Linen comes in a few neutral colors.  It is made of 100% linen.

 

Edinburgh Linen 36 Count Sample

 

Newcastle 40 count Linen comes in a few neutral colors.  It is made of 100% linen.

 

Newcastle Linen 40 Count Sample

 

  Silk 28 count Linen is made of 80% Linen and 20% Silk.     

 

Silk Linen 28 Count Sample

 

 

Even Weaves or Plain Weaves, are normally made of  cotton and some other material blended with it. Even weave means the warp and weft thread count is the same. The threads used to make the fabric are uniform, unlike a linen fabrics, thus your 10x10 grids of cross stitch will be square.  There are several different types of even weave fabric:

 

Davos 18 count fabric is made of 100% cotton twist yarn and it is great for all types of stitching.  It's a relatively heavy fabric and very soft, so it is ideal for clothing, pillows and other items and gives a soft supple look.  It comes in a small range of neutral colors, putty khaki being the most popular color and it has a nice drape to it.

 

Davos 18 Count Sample

 

Fiddlers Cloth is made of 50% cotton, 42% polyester, and 8% silk.  Fiddlers cloth comes in 18 and 14 count and is a lot like Aida fabric.  It is an inexpensive fabric and has a very rustic look to it.

 

Floba 18 and 25 count fabric is made of 30% linen and 70% rayon.  It is a nice, heavy fabric, soft, and drapes well.  Floba comes in a color called natural oatmeal which is very neutral and old fashioned looking.

 

Hardanger fabric is  made of 100% cotton and it is 22 count. Hardanger is also a method of embroidery and Hardanger fabric was designed specifically for it.  Hardanger embroidery was originally worked on 50 count Linen fabric and linen was quite expensive. Cotton Hardanger fabric is inexpensive and was a good solution for stitchers who enjoy Hardanger.   Hardanger as we know it today originated in the Hardanger region of Norway several hundred years ago.  Eventually, Norwegian immigrants brought it to the Untied States.  Hardanger fabric is generally imported from European cities.  It is typically used for Hardanger embroidery, but can be used by cross stitchers looking for delicate detail for projects like ornaments and doilies.  There are several Hardanger patterns and kits available.   You can even make clothing out of Hardanger fabric. It is a lovely way to make a christening dress for a baby,  and makes a wonderful heirloom. For more information about Hardanger, please read our Hardanger tips section. 

 

 

Hardanger 22 Count Sample

 

Jazlyn 28 count fabric is made of 52% cotton and 48% rayon.  It is similar to Jobelan fabric, and comes in several soft colors.

 

Jazlyn 28 Count Sample

 

Jobelan is popular because of it's elegant, soft, smooth sheen and large variety of colors, including hand dyed fabrics.  Jobelan comes in 20, 25, 28 and 32 count and is made of 51% Cotton, 49% Rayon/Modal.  Jobelan drapes nicely and is a pleasure to work with.  It is resistant to wrinkles.

 

Jute fabric comes in 4 and 12 count and is made of 100% Jute.  The fabric has a rough texture and is used to make burlap sacks.  Jute is a shinny vegetable fiber and is long and soft and can be spun into coarse, strong threads to make fabric.

 

Linda 27 count  fabric is 100% cotton and is inexpensive.  It is used as the even weave fabric in many of the Lanarte kits.

 

Linda 27 Count Sample

 

Lugana is also a heavy fabric that is very versatile and similar to a Jobelan.  Lugana comes in many colors and it is a blend of 52% cotton and 48% Viscose. There are different names for Lugana fabric that depend on the stitch count per inch. 20 count is Bellana, 28 count is Brittany, and 32 count is Murano.  Lugana is a soft, heavy, even weave fabric that is easy to count and great for cross stitch.  It comes in many colors and a few different counts like 25, 28 and 32 counts with the most color choices in 25 count.   Lugana is an elegant fabric for table linens, samplers, pillows, and other decorative accessories.  Lugana is also a great choice for Hardanger projects.

 

 Lugana Metallic fabric comes in 20 and 28 count, and is made of 51% cotton, 44% rayon and 5% metallic.  There is either a gold of silver metallic thread woven throughout the fabric to give it sparkle.  It is a beautiful fabric and a nice way to change your project.

 

Quaker cloth 28 count fabric is made of 55% linen and 45% cotton.  It is an inexpensive fabric.

 

Quaker 28 Count Sample

 

 Tula 10 count fabric is made of 60% rayon and 40% cotton.  The holes in Tula fabric are prominent.  It is a soft, unique fabric.  It's comes in some lovely colors.

 

Tula 10 Count Sample

 

 Hand Dyed Fabrics have a very unique look.  They come in Linens, Even Weaves, Aida and other traditional fabrics.  They are perfect for an interesting or unusual background.    Hand dyed opalescent fabrics are an incredible touch to any project.  Opalescent fabrics have a shinny thread weaved through out the fabric to give it sparkle.  They are excellent used as a twilight back ground with shimmering  stars, or as water in the ocean.   The fabrics are washable, soft in texture, and colorfast.  Types of fabric take on dye differently.  A linen is very porous, thus it soaks up dye well, where as a Lugana is a smoother fabric and does not soak up dye as easily.  If you are looking for a dark color, it is  best to go with the Linen fabrics in the hand dyed section.  If you are looking for a more subtle effect, fabrics like Lugana, Aida, etc. are a good choice.  The hand dyed fabrics are all very unique.  No two are exactly alike.  

 

Hand Dyed - Cashel French Lilac

Hand Dyed - Opalescent Example

 

Perforated Paper was used by those that could not afford Linen in the Victorian era.   During the Victorian era, most perforated paper projects consisted of bookmarks or bible verses made into samplers that were hung on the wall.   It is still used today for the same purposes.   It comes in a  variety of solid and marbled colors and is generally 14 count. Perforated paper is often used to make ornaments and bookmarks.

 

Perforated Paper - Hand Painted 14 Count

 

 Afghan fabrics.  Afghan fabric is often referred to as patterned fabric. There are several different types of afghan fabric to choose from.  They come in different counts and different styles.  Some have a large center for a center theme to the afghan.  Others are in patterns of squares.    There are many cross stitch patterns to choose from that are designed for afghans.  There are also some great baby afghans by companies like Charles Craft and Zweigart like the baby Alphabet Afghan by Charles Craft.

 

Gloria, 14 count Afghan fabric

 

 Canvas fabrics are used for cross stitch, needlepoint, Hardanger and more.  There are several kinds of canvas.  Some are stiffer than others.  They come in several counts.  Here are several different types of canvas:

 

Canvas Deluxe Mono 18 count fabric is made of 100% cotton.  It comes in some basic colors as well as a few brighter colors. 

 

Canvas Deluxe Mono, 18 count sample

 

Canvas Interlock in 10, 12, 13, 14 and 18 counts, 100% cotton,  is used for needlepoint or cross stitch. It is an "open weave" fabric.  It cannot be used for petit point since it has one thread running up and down that cannot be split apart.  It is not as subject to distortion as waste canvas or Penelope.

 

 

Canvas Penelope 10/20 count fabric, 100% cotton, also called double mesh or duo canvas because it has two threads running vertically and horizontally.  It can be used for petit point or gross point needlepoint.

 

Canvas Penelope 10/20 count sample

 

Canvas Petit Point Mono 22 count, 100% cotton fabric.  Perfect for petit point needlepoint projects. It is an "open weave" fabric with prominent holes.

 

Canvas Petit Point Mono 22 count sample

 

Congress Cloth 24 count, 100% cotton is a combination of a fabric and and canvas. It is a "open weave" fabric with prominent holes.  It is perfect for Hardanger, petit point needlepoint and cross stitch.  It is softer than canvas. It comes in neutral colors and with metallic threads mixed in to some colors as well.

 

Congress Cloth 24 count sample

 

Waste Canvas is used to stitch your design on fabrics that are not cross stitch friendly, like denim or T-shit cotton fabric,  table cloths and napkins.  Waste canvas comes in several different counts from 6.5 to 20 count.  Waste canvas is usually marked with a grid in blue that breaks the canvas down into 10 count squares (just like a pattern)  that makes it easy to count and to position your design in the center.  Some people choose to use some fabric on the inside of the material they are stitching on to give added support to their stitches.  This is called interfacing.  Using a 6 stranded floss, you will generally stitch with two strands of floss.  However, this is something that is left up to you to decide.  If you are concerned that the floss colors will run, than you can soak each color of floss in water to remove any excess dye before stitching.   To begin your design, be sure to center the waste canvas on your shirt, blue jeans, etc.  You can baste or pin your waste canvas and interfacing to your project.    Be sure to secure your floss firmly so it doesn't come undone when you wash your garment.  Once you have stitched your design to your garment and you are finished, wet your waste canvas and gently pull it out from under your design so that all that is left is the design you have stitched on the garment.  It is best to wash your garment turned inside out.  Make sure the edges of your interfacing are trimmed close to the design so as not to be caught during the washing process and pulled off. 

 

 Monks Cloth.  Monks cloth is similar to a Herta or 6 to 8 count Aida.  It is softer and more pliable.  Monks cloth is 100% cotton and it is 7 count.  That means 7 stitches per inch of fabric.  However, you must prepare Monks cloth BEFORE you stitch on it.  First, you serge the edges of the fabric with a zig zag stitch on your sewing machine to keep the edges from fraying.  Then it must be washed in a gentle warm water cycle in you washing machine.   Dry it in the dryer and it is ready to go.  The fabric will shrink quite a bit in this process.   Monks cloth is also preferred for Swedish Weaving.

 

Monks Cloth 7ct Count Sample

 

What is an even weave? An even weave fabric has the same amount of warp and weft fabrics. In laymens terms, ten stitches vertically  and ten stitches  horizontally will be the same length, or essentially square. It is quite uniform. Even the threads used to create an evenweave are all the same thickness, so they lend themselves well to an "even" set of stitches. There are many examples of evenweave fabrics out there, and we carry most of them, in stock. For example, Jobelan, Hardanger, Lugana, Linda, Davos, Floba, and I can go on and on. 

 

Linen fabrics are not even weave. Linen fabrics are made from natural linen fibers and they are not uniform, thus the uneven weave of the fabric. This does not make them a lesser fabric. As a matter of fact, linen is a much more traditional fabric, and it is great to use on projects where you are looking for a more antique or traditional look. There are several linen fabrics and all different stitch counts. Some of the linen fabrics we carry in stock are Belfast, Cashel, Edinburgh, Cork, Betsy Ross Linen, as well as some linen blends. 

 

Tips for choosing a vibrant fabric color. If you are a little nervous choosing a real COLOR for your fabric, this section is for you. I love to experiment with color when I stitch a new design. It is always best to get your pattern in hand BEFORE you choose a fabric. Nine times out of ten, the picture of the design on the front of the pattern is not a good representation of the actual floss colors that you will be using on your project. I like to pull my floss for my project first to see what the actual colors are going to look like, and then choose a fabric color that will work well. One of the questions I ask myself when choosing a cross stitch fabric color for my design is "what would the background look like behind the design if I were to see it in real life?" For example, I am about to start a pattern called "Guenievre" by Nimue, and to me she looks like a Scottish queen sitting on an intricate green throne. I imagine her sitting in a room with a blazing fire, so I have decided on a fabric with a pink/peach hue to it. It's as if the fire is playing on the wall behind her. 

 

 

Beware of Dye Lots!  Manufacturers of fabric tend to change dye lots over a period of time. Frequently, the dye lots are so close in color that you cannot tell the difference. However, there are times when the dye lot changes drastically. Always keep this in mind when choose a fabric for a project. If your cross stitch project requires more than one piece of fabric, and you wish them to match exactly, the dye lot will be very important to you. I suggest buying all the fabric you will need for a long term project all at one time if you want the fabrics to match exactly.